Mask Review: Jayjun Baby Pure Shining Mask

jayjun mask

Introduction

Nowadays, multi-step sheet mask is not a new type of product anymore. Road shop cosmetic brands such as Skinfood introduced several multi-step sheet masks such as Boosting Juice 2-step mask sheet Ceramide andWater Berry Ampoule & Essence Mask Sheet. Leaders brought Aquaringer Plus 2 Step mask  on the market. Llang also introduced 3 three step sheet masks (brightening, pore control, moisturizing) with large Q-tip peeling stick. However out of all of these high quality multi-step sheet masks,Jayjun’s Baby Pure Shining Mask is getting weirdly popular in masksheets.com nowadays. I opened a box and tried it.

jayjun open

First Impression

So, this mask consists of 3 steps

1.     Blooming Essence

2.     Mask

3.     Hydro Eye cream

jayjun essence

1.     Essence and eye cream is placed in sample-like film pouch. The amount contained in the film sheet is quite generous (1.5ml) so it is more than enough for 3 or 4 times of usage. The blooming essence has gel-like refreshing texture but does not observed really quick. Seemingly, Jay Jun did not put much volatile ingredients such as alcohol since the sheet mask should be used right after the essence.

2.     The mask is really thin Cupra (specially processed cotton linter pulp.) I have reviewed so many sheet masks but this mask definitely has the BEST skin affinity. It is very thin, hold so much serum and feel gentle on the skin. My only complain is that the sheet is so thin, so it is kind of difficult to unfold it. However, seriously, the mask quality is excellent.

3.     Hydro eye cream has creamy but light texture. Again, they put quite generous amount of eye cream in the film pouch, so you can use in your whole face for 3 or 4 times, not only for your eye zone.

jayjun put on

Ingredient Check

They put decent amount of proven beneficial ingredients. Niacinamide and adenosine were added for brightening ingreidnet, and many moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, trehalose, allantoin. Popular fermented skin conditioning ingredients such as lactobacillus soybean and Yeast fermentation extracts. The rest of ingredients are also quite safe. For the products with lots of active ingredients like Baby Pure Shining Mask, producers tends to triethanolamine as pH adjustor, but they used tromethamine, the safer one. Of course, it cannot be completely preservative free, so it has phenoxyethanol in the ingredients list, so be aware of it if it concerns you. It also contains silicon based moisturizer –dimethicone, so if you have acne prone skin, please test it before you use.

jayjun put off

After-Thought

As we can see from the name, it really does make your skin dewy and glow. Maybe you can see from the before/after pictures, it really does make your skin visibly brighter and glow. It is not only a really good mask for the treatment before you go to sleep but also a superb day mask for your important date or interview. The ingredients are impressive as well. It contains good amount of beneficial ingredients and minimized potentially harmful ingredients. I would definitely say this was one of the best sheet masks that I reviewed in 2016. Guys, just try one, and you will love it.

 

One Line Review

★★★★★

PROS: incredible ingredient / incredible glow

CONS: I wish they had protection sheet on the mask so that we could unfold easier

IDEAS: Use one & Get dewy!!!!

 

I am also on Reddit and /r/asianbeauty !

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Oozoo Face Injection Mask (Nutrient)

oozoo mask

Introduction

I think (and I am sure many others as well) the sheet mask is the most iconic product in Korean beauty business. There were sheet masks before Korean beauty gained the popularity nowadays, but certainly the K-beauty trend made mask sheets more general, ubiquitous and a must-routine of skin care. From $1 mask of Missha in early 2000 to the Innisfree’s second skin mask with fermented green bean sheet, Korean sheet masks have evolved constantly. Oozoo Face Injection Mask is in the newest position of this evolvement. The Oozoo separated several ingredients in the separate syringe, trying to deliver active ingredient right before use, so that the user can benefit from the fresh mixture.

(before put the mask)

before

First Impression

So, this sheet mask consists of two parts. On left side of package, a syringe with separated powder tube and liquid tube is placed. On the other side,there is a sheet mask with injection hole. The sheet mask is already wet, so it is not like we inject small amount of liquid on the dry mask. First, you need a little instruction to use it. You have to inject powder into liquid part first. So the small piston on the top of the syringe should be pushed on, then the white powders will be dropped into liquid part. After you shake it, you can inject to the mask part through the hole. Check out the video, and then you will know what I am talking about. (Always visual instruction is better, right?)  Then you can open the cover. The sheet is thicker than most of the sheet masks on the market and folded with scaffold. Even though it is thicker than other mask sheets, it has great skin affinity, and it feels extremely soft because of the fine fibers on the mask.

 (mask on)

mask on

Ingredient Check

Since the ingredient is separated in two parts (mask/syringe), I did two ingredient checks. One thing that I am pleasantly surprised by Oozoo sheet mask; it has arguably the best ingredient composition in the market. While they minimized potentially problematic ingredients such as triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol and parabens, the Oozoo added decent amount of moisturizers and active ingredients. They used Phellinus Linteus extract (a mushroom extract that is used in Korean traditional medicine for nutrition) as solvent and added relatively safe moisturizing solvents such as butylenes glycol & glycerin. You can find acetylhexapeptide-8 (argireline) – a.k.a Botox derivative – relatively in the front, and adenosine is added as brightening/anti-wrinkle active ingredient. Well known conditioning agent Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, natural moisturizer beta-glucan are used for solvent of powder ascorbic acid in the syringe. It contains Glyceryl Stearate SE, and it is a safe ingredient but it can be acnegenic for someone so please be aware of it. Phenoxy ethanol is used for preservatives just like many other paraben free products.

after

After Thought

This is a good mask. Amazing ingredient, great texture and a little fun factor as well. The fine fiber on the mask provides great affinity to the skin even though the sheet is pretty thick. Thick mask sheets do not dry out quickly so you do not have to keep adding serum, and it deeply hydrated my skin and visibly improved fine lines. The moisture stayed on the next day as well so it made my skin nicely glow for entire day. The most amazing part of this mask is its ingredients. Without much of surfactant and preservative, they added decent amount of active ingredients, seemingly because they separated several ingredient to the syringe. I will definitely recommend this mask to anyone who have combination to dry skin and in my routine sheet mask along with Leaders First Ampoule mask.

One Line Review

★★★★★

PROS: Amazing ingredient, radiant glow with injectable syringe

CONS: a little more expensive than other masks

IDEA: Be your own dermatologist with the syringe

 

I am also on Reddit and /r/asianbeauty

Gold Caviar Collagen Plus Serum

Introduction

If someone asks what the most famous Skinfood product is, most of people will pick the Black Sugar Mask. But, Skinfood is not all about 11 dollar cleansing foam and cheap sheet masks. Actually, unlike many other road shop brands, Skinfood’s target audience is not limited to teenager. They have multiple product lines, and Gold Caviar line is the most popular premium line along with Platinum Grape Cell or Blanc Pearl line. Today I brought THE MOST EXPENSIVE serum from Skinfood – Gold Caviar Collagen Plus Serum ($62 or more expensive). Why not enjoy a little luxury from this reasonably priced brand, Right?

First Impression

The serum is placed in a pump type container, dispenses adequate amount (pea size) of serum for use. The serum has gel like texture rather than creamy/butter. When it is applied on skin, it feels refreshing and it is absorbed really quickly. It leaves slightly oily layer on the skin but it is not unpleasant and it moisturized my skin very well. It has very light floral fragrance, so it is not completely fragrance free product 😦

skingun

skin gun

From the PH test, it turns out this serum is slightly acidic (pH 5.5 to 6) than water, which is adequate for the skin because skin exists in slightly acidic condition. So it won’t irritate your skin interms of its acidity. Right after the application, skin gun test demonstrated water index was increased from 41.6% to 60.6% and oil index also increased from 18.7% to 27.2%. So we can see, this serum nicely moisturized my skin.

ph

Ingredient Check

Interestingly, this serum used hydrolyzed marine collagen as its base. So it contains 80.8% of hydrolyzed marine collagen. Actually, collagen has been a very popular ingredient from early 90’s as firming and anti-aging ingredient. Yes, there are some researches that collagen may used for wound healing for the dressing purposes, but collagen is definitely NOT a recognized active ingredient for an anti-wrinkle or a firming agent. So we should understand the benefits from collagen (including hydrolyzed one) generally comes from its moisturizing effect. It also contains 800mg of caviar extract and safe moisturizing agents such as butylene glycol / glycerin. It contains dimethicone, so be aware of it if it concerns you. Sodium hyaluronate, adenosine and multiple peptides were added as anti wrinkle and firming agents. I can say this serum is made with safe compounds.

 

After Thought

Some of Korean bloggers recommend this serum as a cheaper substitute La Prairie’s Cellular Platinum Rare. I do not know the La Prairie can magically protect your DNA and brighten your skin (at least this is what they say) but certainly Gold Caviar Collagen Plus does its job. It moisturizes skin well and it contains good amount of anti-aging, cell repairing ingredients. So I would rather choose the Skinfood if I wanna go a little luxury.

One-line Review

★★★★☆

 PROS: light but moisturizing texture with lots of lots of collagen

 CONS: A little expensive (62$)

IDEAS: Skinfood maybe go luxury. I love Caviar!!

I am also on Reddit and /r/asianbeauty

 

Too creamy for a cleanser :Too Cool For School, Egg Mousse Soap

Introduction

Probably, many of K-beauty fans get to know Too Cool for School from Sephora’s K-beauty campaign in 2015. It is unclear how merchandisers in Sephora found this relatively new brand, in a very short period of time, Too Cool for School has become a well known Korean brand in United States with its unique and innovative designs. Too Cool for School introduced many “two in one“products like BB cream + Concealer or CC cream + highlighter in one container. Of course, we cannot forget about their iconic Jean George Llong container with an intimating male torso. o(^^o) (o^^)o

However out of all these products, the most famous product is its Egg Mousse soap. It makes cream-like fine bubbles from gas spray type container. Anyway enough talk, let’s take look more closely.

Egg Mousse

First Impression

I definitely can see why they used gas type spray container. The foam texture is very similar creamy, similar to Shiseido’s Perfect Whip. But it makes much creamier, richer and denser bubbles. Furthermore, Too Cool for School’s Egg Mousse Soap can be applied directly to the damp skin (I mean you don’t have to make fine bubbles on your skin.o(╯□╰)o )

skin gun

After the skin gun test, I could confirm this cleanser does not over-dry the skin. Before the cleansing (on my left arm,) oil index was 14.3%, and moisture was 31.9%. Right after the 1 min of cleansing, the oil was increased to 16.5% and moisture level to 36.7%, seemingly from the moisturizers in the cleanser. After 30min, oil / water level dropped by0.2% and 0.5%, much less drying than most of the cleansers in the market.

PH is neutral

ph

 

It cleansed base make-up (BB cream & eye shadow) and excessive dirt/oil pretty well but it does not clean water proof eyeliner / lip tint very effectively. (You can check out the photos below.) So, you will need other lip & eye make-up remover for point make up.

(Before)

makeup

( After Cleansing )

after cleansing

( After Cleansing Skin Gun Shot )

after skin gun

Ingredient Check

The composition of this cleanser is not new. The triethanol amine is used as a PH balancer. This could be irritating for some people but generally most of the cleansers contain PH balancer and you will wash this off, so I don’t find it very problematic. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is seemingly used for the texture and this may be irritating on scars, so if you have acne scars or other break out, please be aware of it. Other than that, they used known, safe ingredients only. Some of fat based emollients such as palmitic acid and myristic acid may be not very suitable for acne prone skins, though. We can see from its name “Egg Mousse Soap,” it contains milk protein, egg yolk extract and albumen extract as a moisturizer / emollient and a little bit of allantoin is added as anti-inflammatory agent. Butane was used for filling gas, but it will be diffused after you wash your face, so I won’t worry about it too much.

afterthought

After Thought

It is an excellent cleanser for the people who only wear light make up, and have dry skin to normal skin. The texture of this cleanser is its unique selling point. Its soft and velvety/creamy texture is really comfortable for my skin and it washes nicely if you put water on your face. As I mentioned above, it does not over-dry your skin, and it cleanses base make up and dirt really well. But because of its composition, it is better to use another cleanser if you have oily, acne prone skin.

One-line Review

★★★★☆

PROS:  super soft, non-drying cleansing foam

CONS:  you will need oil cleanser separately for you point make-up

IDEA: lovely creamy cleansing foam that I will definitely buy again.

Everything about Sunscreen!

When I was young, my mom used to put thick layer of sunscreen wherever I went and I hated it. <(`^´)> It made my face unnaturally white, and that super uncomfortable oily feeling on my skin was not my favorite. Now I know, as a biochemist, I realize she did the right thing. It does prevent skin cancer and furthermore prevents fine line and pigmentation. Today, I will talk a little further about the core of Asian beauty – sun block.

What is sunscreen?

Generally, we can roughly divided sunscreen into 3 different types.

physical-sunscreen

Type 1: Physical sunscreen

So, physical sunscreen veils your skin with thin layer of mineral particles so it makes sunlight be reflected from your skin rather than absorbed. Representative ingredient can be zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Since it is not absorbed into your skin, it does not stimulate skin much so it can be used on sensitive skin or baby skin. But at the same time, it can be a little uncomfortable since the mineral layer remains on the top of your skin. The biggest problem of physical sunscreen is white cast, and you generally need oil type cleanser to completely remove physical sunscreen.

 P.S. There are number of researches prove that titanium oxide can be problematic for acne prone skin. ( ̄ε(# ̄)︴

chemical sunscreen

Type 2: Chemical Sunscreen

Instead of using mineral coating, chemical sunscreen use carbon based molecules.  Chemical sunscreens use a little more complicated mechanism. The chemical molecules work as a barrier as well but when they got attacked by UV, they undergo exothermic reaction (releasing heat to the environment.) So these chemical molecules undergo reaction instead of your skin cells. (Great sacrifice!) Oxybenzone , Avobenzone or many other molecules can be used as chemical sun filter. They are generally colorless and have watery / refreshing texture than physical sunscreen so it is widely used “oil-free” sunscreens. They can be refreshing but may irritate skin as well. So you have to try before you buy any. ㄟ(≧◇≦)ㄏ

Type 3: Mixture of 1 & 2

Nowadays almost all companies try to mix these physical / chemical filters to maximize sun protection and minimize the feeling of uncomfortable.

Then what is SPF and what is PA?

sunscreen

Sun Protection Factor refers to the time that sunscreen can protect your skin from UV B. Everyone has different threshold time until you got burn without sunscreen. So, SPF X means you can stay X times longer under the sun with the given sunscreen. So for example, if your skin’s threshold is 10 min and you wear sunscreen with SPF30, you can stay under the sun for 300 min without get burned. (I am not saying you have to find out your burning threshold time. It is generally 10 to 20 min.) So it does not mean a sunscreen with SPF50 blocks UV B than a sunscreen with SPF30.

PA (protection grade of UVA) is a relatively new concept, and it shows that how well the sunscreen protects you from UVA. (UVA up-regulates the MMP that degrade elastin and collagen, meaning you will lose firmness and gain wrinkle if you got exposed. Scarrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyyo(╯□╰)o). Since there is no standardized system to measure PA or (PPD for European cosmetics), I won’t mention it precisely here but more + after PAor higher number of PPD means better protection against UVA.

Recommendation

 code9

Code 9 UV defense long lasting protector SPF 50+ / PA +++

The texture of water capsule in the base is very interesting. It tones up your skin and makes your skin glows. If you like dewy skin, this sunscreen is recommended under your primer.

leaders

Leaders Aqua Sun Liquid SPF 50 / PA +++

It has very refreshing and non-sticky texture, so good for oily skin in summer. It does not leave much white cast, so if you like natural skin, Leaders Aqua Sun Liquid may be a good choice.

too cool for school

Too cool For School Jean George Llong  SPF 50 / PA +++

Too Cool for School’s Jean George LLong has non-sticky, fast absorbing texture as well. It has slight ivory color, so you may use and skip the make-up base or CC cream.

skinfood

Skinfood Tomato Sun cream SPF 36 / PA ++

It has very matt texture. Interestingly, this sunscreen has very natural white cast, some Korean bloggers use this as “natural bare skin make up(안색크림).”

sunscreen

Reference

Latha, M. S., Martis, J., Shobha, V., Sham Shinde, R., Bangera, S., Krishnankutty, B., … Naveen Kumar, B. R. (2013). Sunscreening Agents: A Review. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology6(1), 16–26.

Hayden CG, Cross SE, Anderson C, Saunders NA, Roberts MS

Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Jul-Aug; 18(4):170-4.

Marionnet C, Grether-Beck S, Seité S, et al. A broad-spectrum sunscreen prevents UVA radiation-induced gene expression in reconstructed skin in vitro and in human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol.

Find Your Best Sleeping Pack This Summer !

5sleeping pack

Sometimes I really feel like Korean products are like wines.↖(^▽^)↗ There are many prestigious brand and famous products but at the same time, there are so many “cult-wine” like products in the realm of K-beauty. I mean, there are many unknown, economically priced brands with excellent quality and it is such a great fun to find those products and share with others. So Blog #M did a little experiment on these less appreciated sleeping masks. (*¯︶¯*) We picked up 3 sleeping masks and 2 sleeping mask substitutes. So here are our experiment subjects.

  1. LLang Redgin Magic Sleeping Pack $31.50
  2. BOTANIC FARM Black Soybean Milk Pudding Sleeping Pack $24.50
  3. Code 9 black volume cream $35.00
  4. Code 9 Super Seed Oil Mask $33.00
  5. Skinfood Lettuce Cucumber Watery Soothing Pack ?

5sleeping pack

Texture Test

For you, we have prepared tiny texture dishes below. Llang & Botanic Farm has jelly like texture but Llang has more watery, honey-like texture than Botanic Farm. Code 9’s Black volume has thickest texture among them. Code 9’s Super Seed Oil Mask has the butter like texture, and skinfood has the most watery texture, with only slight viscosity.

 

Spotting Test / Oil Chromatography

We prepared commonly used oil blotting paper and run the chromatography. (I know, it is not a real chromatography, but since we use the hydrophobic affinity of blotting paper, we can somehow consider it as chromatography process.) Anyway, if the oil circle spread winder from the spotting, it means that it contains more oil in it. By the way, I am not trying to say that oily sleeping packs are bad (But I personally prefer less oily sleeping masks for the summer.) rather, you can use this as a reference when you buy your next sleeping mask.

(Original)

oil test1

As you can see, Code 9’s Super seed oil and Botanic Farm Soy bean mask have high oil contents. Llang’s Redgin has the least oil, and the texture maintained even after 2 hours.

 (After 40minits)

oil test after 40m

Skin-gun Test

(before skin test number)

original

  1. After the cleansing my inner arm thoroughly, I ran the skin gun test. The oil index is 18%, and water index is 40.01%.
  2. I run the skin gun test, and see the chart below. Oil/Water change indicates the change from my initial skin condition. Redgin showed highest increase both in oil & water index.

after 5minits

Oil Water Oil % increase Water % increase
Redgin 23.60% 52.50% 67.38% 67.20%
Soy bean 22.60% 50.30% 60.28% 60.19%
Black Volume 22.10% 49.30% 56.74% 57.01%
Super Seed 18.80% 41.90% 33.33% 33.44%
Lettuce Cucumber 20.60% 45.80% 43.26% 46.18%

 

after hour

I run the skin test again after one hour. Oil/Water change indicates the change from the run 2. Still, Redgin showed the highest Water/Oil index in skin. Interestingly, Super Seed showed increase in number, both for oil& water index. (I guess it is due to Super Seed’s Oily texture because it absorbs really slowly.╮(╯3╰)╭)

 

Oil Water Oil % change Water % change
Redgin 21.90% 48.70% -7.20% -7.24%
Soy bean 20.70% 46.00% -8.41% -8.55%
Black Volume 20.80% 46.40% -5.88% -5.88%
Super Seed 20.50% 45.60% 9.04% 8.83%
Lettuce Cucumber 20.20% 45.10% 0.00% -1.74%

 

Winner of the First Lab 0^◇^0)/

So, the winner of Blog #M’s first experiment goes to……………

☆ミ ☆彡LLang Redgin Magic Sleeping Pack !!!!!!! ☆ミ ☆彡

From both test, I could assure Llang’s sleeping pack is nicely formulated, giving fresh texture for hot & sticky summer but maintain oil and moisture index in my skin pretty well. If you have really oily skin, Skinfood’s Lettuce-Cucumber Watery Soothing Pack may be a really good choice as well because it effectively controls the oil in your skin, and maintain the moisture level nicely.

I am also on Reddit and /r/asianbeauty

Salmon’s egg for your eye – well……..

Intro

The eye area is probably the first place to see the sign of aging, from the under eye fine lines to the stubborn craw feet. Wrinkles appear in all sort of places, (and most of the time, unwanted) but eye area is more prone to aging than other area because they are thin and muscles around eyes move a lot compared to other muscles. The sad news is that many things that we enjoy (sunshine or wine, or even better sunshine and wine at the same time) also cause wrinkles around eyes. Let’s skip the “aging cause wrinkles’ because we all know about it. ╰( ̄▽ ̄)╭

eye wrinkle

So I brought something that we can try for our precious eye zone before we run to Dermatologist for Botox or Ulthera. (I will write about these treatments in other posting, I promise.) So, Let’s look at them.

opened

eye patch

First impression

60 moisty hydrogel eye patch are placed in one jar of Botanic Farm Salmon Egg Hydrogel Eye Patch. I cannot say this product contains soaking amount of serum with the patch but most of the hydrogels contain active ingredients inside of the gel, so I don’t think it matters. It does not have any noticeable smell (Don’t worry, it does not smell fishy.), and the patch is completely opaque unlike other hydrogel products (They are generally semi-transparent right?)

They are thin & durable so it is quite comfortable to skin, and have excellent affinity to skin so you can freely move around when the patches are attached to the eye zone. But I would not say they have better skin affinity than Leaders Insolution Moisturizing Recovery Mask.

put them on

Ingredient Check

First, if you have acne type skin around your area, please be aware that this hydrogel eye mask contains carrageenan and potassium chloride. Σ( ° △ °|||) Both of them are highly rated comedogenic molecules and it can stimulate the acne breakout. But this is eye mask, so application area is limited to the eye zone, so I guess it is not really a problem. It contains known active ingredient such as adenosine and niacinamide, fortifying the wrinkle correction function and allantoin is added as anti-inflammatory moisturizer. It contains parabens, so be aware of them if they concern you. It does contain salmon egg extract just like their name, but honestly,I could not find any reliable scientific references so I would not mention anything about it.  <(`^´)>

afterthought

After Thought

It is a good value eye patch definitely.╮(╯3╰)╭ I mean it surely does what it claims to do – nicely moisturizes tired and puffy eye zone, in a very short time. As I mentioned above, it adheres to your eye area very well. The reasonable price is its strength as well. Since most of the hydrogel eye patches are priced as 2 to 8 USD, 30 pairs (60 pieces) for 30 USD is pretty economical. But it contains several ingredients that potentially problematic for some people, so check out the ingredient list thoroughly, if it concerns you.

One-line Review

★★★☆☆

PROS: Good value, moisturizing eye patch

CONS: Not for the acne, not for the paraben-phobias.

IDEAS: Eyepatch for the wine party. Drink & Treatment at the same time

Wang-Michelitsch, Jicun; Michelitsch, Thomas (2015). “Tissue fibrosis: a principal evidence for the central role of Misrepairs in aging”.

I am also on Reddit and /r/asianbeauty