Too creamy for a cleanser :Too Cool For School, Egg Mousse Soap

Introduction

Probably, many of K-beauty fans get to know Too Cool for School from Sephora’s K-beauty campaign in 2015. It is unclear how merchandisers in Sephora found this relatively new brand, in a very short period of time, Too Cool for School has become a well known Korean brand in United States with its unique and innovative designs. Too Cool for School introduced many “two in one“products like BB cream + Concealer or CC cream + highlighter in one container. Of course, we cannot forget about their iconic Jean George Llong container with an intimating male torso. o(^^o) (o^^)o

However out of all these products, the most famous product is its Egg Mousse soap. It makes cream-like fine bubbles from gas spray type container. Anyway enough talk, let’s take look more closely.

Egg Mousse

First Impression

I definitely can see why they used gas type spray container. The foam texture is very similar creamy, similar to Shiseido’s Perfect Whip. But it makes much creamier, richer and denser bubbles. Furthermore, Too Cool for School’s Egg Mousse Soap can be applied directly to the damp skin (I mean you don’t have to make fine bubbles on your skin.o(╯□╰)o )

skin gun

After the skin gun test, I could confirm this cleanser does not over-dry the skin. Before the cleansing (on my left arm,) oil index was 14.3%, and moisture was 31.9%. Right after the 1 min of cleansing, the oil was increased to 16.5% and moisture level to 36.7%, seemingly from the moisturizers in the cleanser. After 30min, oil / water level dropped by0.2% and 0.5%, much less drying than most of the cleansers in the market.

PH is neutral

ph

 

It cleansed base make-up (BB cream & eye shadow) and excessive dirt/oil pretty well but it does not clean water proof eyeliner / lip tint very effectively. (You can check out the photos below.) So, you will need other lip & eye make-up remover for point make up.

(Before)

makeup

( After Cleansing )

after cleansing

( After Cleansing Skin Gun Shot )

after skin gun

Ingredient Check

The composition of this cleanser is not new. The triethanol amine is used as a PH balancer. This could be irritating for some people but generally most of the cleansers contain PH balancer and you will wash this off, so I don’t find it very problematic. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is seemingly used for the texture and this may be irritating on scars, so if you have acne scars or other break out, please be aware of it. Other than that, they used known, safe ingredients only. Some of fat based emollients such as palmitic acid and myristic acid may be not very suitable for acne prone skins, though. We can see from its name “Egg Mousse Soap,” it contains milk protein, egg yolk extract and albumen extract as a moisturizer / emollient and a little bit of allantoin is added as anti-inflammatory agent. Butane was used for filling gas, but it will be diffused after you wash your face, so I won’t worry about it too much.

afterthought

After Thought

It is an excellent cleanser for the people who only wear light make up, and have dry skin to normal skin. The texture of this cleanser is its unique selling point. Its soft and velvety/creamy texture is really comfortable for my skin and it washes nicely if you put water on your face. As I mentioned above, it does not over-dry your skin, and it cleanses base make up and dirt really well. But because of its composition, it is better to use another cleanser if you have oily, acne prone skin.

One-line Review

★★★★☆

PROS:  super soft, non-drying cleansing foam

CONS:  you will need oil cleanser separately for you point make-up

IDEA: lovely creamy cleansing foam that I will definitely buy again.

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Everything about Sunscreen!

When I was young, my mom used to put thick layer of sunscreen wherever I went and I hated it. <(`^´)> It made my face unnaturally white, and that super uncomfortable oily feeling on my skin was not my favorite. Now I know, as a biochemist, I realize she did the right thing. It does prevent skin cancer and furthermore prevents fine line and pigmentation. Today, I will talk a little further about the core of Asian beauty – sun block.

What is sunscreen?

Generally, we can roughly divided sunscreen into 3 different types.

physical-sunscreen

Type 1: Physical sunscreen

So, physical sunscreen veils your skin with thin layer of mineral particles so it makes sunlight be reflected from your skin rather than absorbed. Representative ingredient can be zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Since it is not absorbed into your skin, it does not stimulate skin much so it can be used on sensitive skin or baby skin. But at the same time, it can be a little uncomfortable since the mineral layer remains on the top of your skin. The biggest problem of physical sunscreen is white cast, and you generally need oil type cleanser to completely remove physical sunscreen.

 P.S. There are number of researches prove that titanium oxide can be problematic for acne prone skin. ( ̄ε(# ̄)︴

chemical sunscreen

Type 2: Chemical Sunscreen

Instead of using mineral coating, chemical sunscreen use carbon based molecules.  Chemical sunscreens use a little more complicated mechanism. The chemical molecules work as a barrier as well but when they got attacked by UV, they undergo exothermic reaction (releasing heat to the environment.) So these chemical molecules undergo reaction instead of your skin cells. (Great sacrifice!) Oxybenzone , Avobenzone or many other molecules can be used as chemical sun filter. They are generally colorless and have watery / refreshing texture than physical sunscreen so it is widely used “oil-free” sunscreens. They can be refreshing but may irritate skin as well. So you have to try before you buy any. ㄟ(≧◇≦)ㄏ

Type 3: Mixture of 1 & 2

Nowadays almost all companies try to mix these physical / chemical filters to maximize sun protection and minimize the feeling of uncomfortable.

Then what is SPF and what is PA?

sunscreen

Sun Protection Factor refers to the time that sunscreen can protect your skin from UV B. Everyone has different threshold time until you got burn without sunscreen. So, SPF X means you can stay X times longer under the sun with the given sunscreen. So for example, if your skin’s threshold is 10 min and you wear sunscreen with SPF30, you can stay under the sun for 300 min without get burned. (I am not saying you have to find out your burning threshold time. It is generally 10 to 20 min.) So it does not mean a sunscreen with SPF50 blocks UV B than a sunscreen with SPF30.

PA (protection grade of UVA) is a relatively new concept, and it shows that how well the sunscreen protects you from UVA. (UVA up-regulates the MMP that degrade elastin and collagen, meaning you will lose firmness and gain wrinkle if you got exposed. Scarrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyyo(╯□╰)o). Since there is no standardized system to measure PA or (PPD for European cosmetics), I won’t mention it precisely here but more + after PAor higher number of PPD means better protection against UVA.

Recommendation

 code9

Code 9 UV defense long lasting protector SPF 50+ / PA +++

The texture of water capsule in the base is very interesting. It tones up your skin and makes your skin glows. If you like dewy skin, this sunscreen is recommended under your primer.

leaders

Leaders Aqua Sun Liquid SPF 50 / PA +++

It has very refreshing and non-sticky texture, so good for oily skin in summer. It does not leave much white cast, so if you like natural skin, Leaders Aqua Sun Liquid may be a good choice.

too cool for school

Too cool For School Jean George Llong  SPF 50 / PA +++

Too Cool for School’s Jean George LLong has non-sticky, fast absorbing texture as well. It has slight ivory color, so you may use and skip the make-up base or CC cream.

skinfood

Skinfood Tomato Sun cream SPF 36 / PA ++

It has very matt texture. Interestingly, this sunscreen has very natural white cast, some Korean bloggers use this as “natural bare skin make up(안색크림).”

sunscreen

Reference

Latha, M. S., Martis, J., Shobha, V., Sham Shinde, R., Bangera, S., Krishnankutty, B., … Naveen Kumar, B. R. (2013). Sunscreening Agents: A Review. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology6(1), 16–26.

Hayden CG, Cross SE, Anderson C, Saunders NA, Roberts MS

Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Jul-Aug; 18(4):170-4.

Marionnet C, Grether-Beck S, Seité S, et al. A broad-spectrum sunscreen prevents UVA radiation-induced gene expression in reconstructed skin in vitro and in human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol.